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Surf zone currents and influence on surfability

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Abstract:

Surfing headlands are shallow and exposed coastal features that provide a specific form of breaking wave allowing a board-rider to ride on the unbroken wave face. The seabed shape and refraction of the waves in relation to depth contours provide the greatest influence on the quality of the surf break. The large scale and orientation of the Raglan headland allows only the low frequency swells to refract around the headland to create seven different surfing breaks. Each represents a compartmentalization of the shoreline along the headland. This creates variability in wave and current characteristics depending on the orientation and bathymetry at different locations. This provides not only potential access points through the surfzone (ie: smaller currents), but greater surfability in a range of conditions that is not possible on small scale headlands.

Tópico:

Coastal and Marine Dynamics

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